The Odyssey

How To: Wax/Condition Your Shoes

Kaiwah Jacky Ng

When I purchased my first pair of quality shoes, I quickly realized that shoe care is what determines if your $400+ investment survives for years to come. Plus, you get the hibbie-jibbies when you see dry cracked skin right? Same feeling with cracked-leather shoes due poor hydration (but don’t dump your shoes in a tub of water!).

Against my will, I have done a lot of research on this topic. From the best brands for polish, wax versus cream, use of a welt brush, I’ve read it all. For the sake of this being a nugget, this is how I care for my shoes without over-complicating it.

These are the tools I use:

Shoe Care Tools

The Tools:

  • Latex Glove
  • Neutral-Tone Wax
  • Leather Conditioner
  • Cup of Water in a Ice Cream Container
  • Clean Cotton Rag
  • Paper Towel

At minimum, I need the wax and a rag, but having conditioner is always a good idea. For wax, I try to match the color of my shoe. If I am unsure, I go with neutral-colored. The brands used are Kiwi (available anywhere) and Allen Edmonds conditioner. Other brands that are recommended are Saphir, Meltonian, and Lexol.

Shoe Care Step 1

First I dampen the paper towel and wipe down the shoe to clean off any dust, salt or dirt (if you have bad-luck, bird-doo-doo.)

Shoe Care Step 2

I dab the the toe and vamps (side of the shoe) with conditioner, and massage it into the leather.

Shoe Care Step 3

Shoe Care Step 4

After allowing the conditioner to dry, I wrap the cotton rag around my fingers. First I wet the rag, then I dip the moistened rag into the wax and finally apply a thin layer onto the shoe. I pay special attention when rubbing around the broguing (sensitive points of the shoe where the pieces of leather join to create designs) to avoid damages such as this. Be warned, I didn’t know finger cramps existed until I did this exercise.

Shoe Care Step 5

Wax on, wax off — time to buff it out. I just use the rag, barely damp, and do that back-and-forth shoe-shiner thing. Then I finish it off with the horsehair brush for the final buffing. Be sure to do this once every 2 wears. I don’t know where that number came from but seems to be gospel.

Shoe Care Final Look

So fresh and so clean, clean.

Nugget Summary

  1. Wipe shoe with damp cloth
  2. Apply conditioner with clean cloth
  3. Wait until conditioner dries
  4. Apply wax with slightly-damp cloth
  5. Buff wax with slightly-damp cloth
  6. Final buff with horsehair brush
  7. Listen to OutKast – So Fresh So Clean
  8. Repeat this process after every 2 wears

All pictures by author taken with a Nikon D5000 with stock glass.